Reliable repair tutorial Rover K series engine

This information is based on the experience with repair of the k series, if someone decides to follow this repair tutorial will be under your own responsibility.

This information does not fully comply with the provisions that contain the manual, there are minor changes or variations that I've entered after numerous tests and trials in the k series.

For the reliable repair of rover k series engine, we must observe these measures.

BLOCK

Skimmed for that the block is flat.

The dowels of the top block part must have a height between 10.50 to 11 mm.

Its mission is centring the cylinder head for proper placement, in addition to supplying the oil serves to lubricate the top parts.

The dowels should be of steel never thermos plastic, because in whatever time the gasket head will be produce the mixture of oil and coolant.

Never clean the top block with paper, as this can leave some residue use a rag.

It is very important the issue of the cleaning and especially in the top block, does not matter if it's metal gasket as if is of elastomer should not be traces of oil or grease for proper sealing, it is advisable to clean the top of the block using alcohol or degreaser and dry completely before putting on the gasket head.

By joining the two halves of the block there is apply silicone and verify that this silicone after tightening has not been introduced into the holes through which pass the bolts that attach the cylinder head and block, or any channel through which oil goes up or down.

After closing the two halves of the block and before harden removing the excess the silicone with a toothpick.

CYLINDER HEAD

The skimmed cylinder head should not exceed 118.30 mm of height, going beyond means weakens excessively with the consequent risk of breakage. The measure is valid when is new OEM is 118.95/119.05 mm.

With a cone tool of about 5/8 mm, we increased the water passages into the cylinder head is a very simple procedure, is simply to remove the burr of surplus assets in excess of the form that already has the water passages, this operation must be to do before the skim.

Cleaning the top of the cylinder head, must be made in the same way as that used in the block.

When removing the sealant around the top of the cylinder head, which makes the seal between the cams, must be done with utmost care not to produce any deep scratches.

This can be done with a brush, leaf cutter or spatula special workshop.

In applying the new sealant to the cylinder head cover makes closing the cam, one must be very careful with the amount of sealant and an excessive amount of sealant, obstruct the passage of oil that lubricates the cams, producing abnormal wear on these and aluminium cylinder head.

We'll also seal around the circumference of the spark plug, if the close is defective were filled in a greater or lesser extent of oil outside spark plug.

OIL RAIL

The oil rail is at the bottom of the block and must be completely clean by observing the cleaning protocol described for the block.

Due to the squeeze and the temperature it can be cracked in the aluminium on the outside, if you look at first glance this should be replaced immediately.

There are two models, most recently for the quality of its alloy provides more rigidity to the structure and reliability, but both are valid.

-Ref: LCN 100210 standard
-Ref: LCN 000140 latest model

LINERS

The liners rover are liners floating and wet before being placed there is necessary to clean as I have explained above the dirt that may exist in the block.

Its height should be between 0.09 and 0.11 mm above the top of the block.

Cleaning should be exhaustive in the seats (support that has the liner and makes closing the block).

The seat in the block that makes the closing with the liner also be perfectly clean.

Add a little slow drying cyanoacrylate to the seat liner.

This sealer will make our liners stick perfectly to block and to be slow drying, we have time to put the old gasket and bolts and with the cylinder head skimmed if is possible, do a little torque to settle the liners properly while the superglue dries.

Be careful with the amount of cyanoacrylate, better put a small amount and spread with a toothpick.

Never hit the liner with a metallic element, because when put the liner on the block if it is not entirely straight may snag and be stuck.

If we are to put the pistons back into their liners because we have retired of the liners must be well oiled by the inner.

When you place the piston rings will always be the correct position on the cross, separate each about 90 degrees.

If the piston is withdrawn with excessive carbon into the crown or around the rings, it is advisable clean perfectly.

If you are going to use the same rings and bearings con rod or crank, mark the cylinder properly and corresponding location.

Failure to do so can result in a failure, oil consumption or abnormal wear of parts.

CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS

If possible always use new bolts by safety, because when used the old bolts to having tight and take temperature the stretching is permanently engraved on them and then when apply the torque for the press, will not make the proper closing of the block and cylinder head.

For a perfect squeeze and close, allowing time for the fire ring gasket to make the support and closed with greater reliability, use this tightening sequence.

20 Nm +90+90+90+90 degrees.

Thus the stretching of the bolt will be less, because it is more gradual and not much force is exerted by tightening sequence.

Before putting the cylinder head bolts, oil or copper grease applied before tightening bolts and proceed to remove the excess.

This prevents possible damage to the threads of the oil rail.

GASKET HEAD

Do not put fingers or leave oil stains and grease.

Two models are completely reliable if we followed this tutorial repair:

-Ref: LVB 000320 SLP -Elastomer
-Ref: LVB 500190 -Multilayer

If using the gasket (MLS) you must use the latest rover oil rail.

ENGINE OIL

Since this engine has hydraulic followers is advisable to use a more viscous oil than 10W/40 and of course fully synthetic.

CAMSHAFTS, FOLLOWERS and BEARINGS

Whenever an engine is producing a mixture of oil and coolant should be replaced all bearings crank, con rod and the axial and is also recommended to inspect pistons, con rods and rings.

When put back into the engine, we have to clean all parts with much care, but above all the bearings seats at the bottom so that the adjustment is perfect and have no dirt in them, whether on the block or con rod.

The oil should be applied in each and every one of the con rod and crank bearings, also on all piston pins and cams seats, for not producing abnormal wear during initial operation start.

Do not rotate the crank before they pressed the cylinder head, because until that this tightening does not occur, the bearings are ovalized by the lack of pressure from the bolts, if you turn produce abnormal wear and offset them.

Lubricate the outside follower and housing, thus avoiding produce scratches on the aluminium cylinder head.

Drain the follower's oil completely before putting it into the engine if there is mixing of fluids.

THERMOSTAT

Whenever possible, we must replace the thermostat from 88 degrees by another before opening.

If the thermostat has a hole for filling mixing of hot and cold coolant before it opened, will be placed toward the cylinder head, never to sump.

Place a fan thermo-contact to acting at 85/90 degrees.

OIL PUMP

Before put the oil pump on an engine must perform the inspection of the size spring acting on the wastegate

To proceed to loosen the bolt pump, the pump should be placed on the engine to avoid damage.

Its size must be between 40/41 mm, If its length is less need to replace the spring or the pump.

Apply sealant to the nut/bolt before screwing back.

If you disassembled the oil pump, the rotor and the eccentric should be scratched the least possible.

The rotor has a small notch that indicating their placement, which should be once you put the pump in its working position is facing outward.

Observe well the two halves of the interior of the oil pump, if there is an undermining excessive or wear must be replaced.

The oil pump with a larger rotor of 11.5 mm is the best one. Ref: LPF 000030

COOLANT

Always 50% antifreeze and replace if possible every two years.

BEFORE STARTING

When an engine has been completely disassembled, to do a simple protocol so that all parts are lubricated before of the start.

Switch off the ramp injectors and proceeds to give the start for a few seconds and repeat the process 4 or 5 times.

The oil reached all parts and when we proceed to start the engine and the rpm take 900/1000, all parts will be properly lubricated.